Story: An Unexpected (and hair raising) Adventure

I used to travel daily for work around the northeastern counties of Massachusetts, namely Essex and Suffolk counties. This is basically the seaboard and adjacent towns that run northeast of Boston to the New Hampshire border. One of these communities located directly on the water is the picturesque, and still working, port of Gloucester (see my post Location: The Mouth of the Danvers River & Nearby Islands). Gloucester harbor resides near the tip of Cape Ann - not as far east as Rockport, but close. The harbor and nearby waters open to the south of Cape Ann, while the Annisquam River connects both the southern and northern coasts of Cape Ann (the much smaller and rockier contrast to the well known Cape Cod, which juts into the ocean from southeast of Boston).   . 

I am always on the lookout for a paddle adventure when I am near the ocean, and one workday two summers back, I happened upon the public boat launch near Gloucester High School, which affords parking and a launch point into the Annisquam. The idea occurred to me to launch from this point, paddle south under the Blynman Canal drawbridge (which I have heard is the second busiest drawbridge on the entire eastern seaboard), and head west along the coast past Magnolia (a section of Gloucester). There are several islands located near the rocky Magnolia coast (the front yards of mansions and large shingle style homes) that are accessible for a lunch and beer break (thankfully, many craft beers are now available in cans 😈). 

A few days later, I proposed my idea to my frequent paddling buddy, Tim. Tim and I got into paddling touring length kayaks many years ago, and Tim has been a good natured participant in many of my planned excursions. Some trips have lived up to my expectations, and some have been a hard slog, with many a lesson learned. This particular excursion started as the former, but ended as the latter - by far.

The day was a sunny, hot, mid-summer beauty that brings New Englanders to the shore in droves. We got an early enough start to avoid significant boat traffic under the drawbridge (more on that later), and made our way into the outer harbor past Stage Fort Park. The wind was blowing lightly from the southeast, and the chop it caused was small enough that paddling progress was not affected significantly. Everything appeared to be set up for a mildly challenging and enjoyable afternoon on the water.

Once we turned the corner past a rocky outcrop at the western edge of the greater harbor, I noticed the chop and swell took on a more "open ocean" feel. Waves were crashing onto the rock formations and cliffs to our starboard (right) side, so we stayed far enough away to avoid getting caught in anything dangerous. The conditions at this point were just about perfect. There is a feeling of freedom paddling a kayak in open water conditions that fosters a spirit of adventure a bit more emphatic than the feel of paddling a flat backwater. 

The increased swell and chop, as well as an increased wind speed, slowed our progress. So, we adjusted our plans, and shortened our destination to Kettle Island, just south of Magnolia Harbor  GOOGLE MAP of MAGNOLIA COAST  . We beached the boats on the sandbar between Kettle Island and the smaller rock to the north, and settled in for a rest, some lunch, and a tasty beer. We had the place to ourselves, with the exception of two other kayakers and an abundance of squawking seagulls. After we had a sandwich, we made the mistake of attempting to explore the island, and stumbled into the midst of a seagull rookery. Alarmed and swooping gulls harassed us until we made our way back to the beach, where we could find some peace.

After maybe an hour, we decided to head back east along the coast - realizing we would be headed more directly into the wind, which would impede our progress and increase the time needed to get back. I noticed some small waves breaking onto the sandbar, and suggested we play in the waves for a few minutes as we launched. We pretty quickly realized the swell had grown in the hour we were beached, and the waves crashing onto Magnolia proper were 3-5 feet. Playing in the swell was quickly adjusted to dealing with the conditions to avoid capsize or getting pulled onto the rocks. I realized the conditions on the way back would be far more difficult than on the way out: the swell was coming from the southeast, but crossing currents were causing waves from the northeast as well. In order to keep our bows pointed toward the swell (the safest alignment to avoid capsize), we would be travelling farther out to sea - which was not what we wanted. We were forced to adopt a pattern of paddling southeast into the swell for a bit, then readjusting to a northeast direction - which had us "surfing" the swell at a 45 degree angle. This was not ideal, but was the only way we could somewhat safely progress in an easterly direction back toward Gloucester and the safety of the harbor. 

At one point, I looked to my left and saw Tim get a little too straight in front of a swell wave. Some of them were now big enough to break a bit at the top. Tim slid down the face of the wave into the trough, and his bow plunged into the water. He was in danger of "pearling" (driving the front of the boat under water, which slows the bow speed relative to the stern speed, and can cause the kayak to capsize). Tim maintained his balance, used his paddle to brace, and pulled his bow clear, but it was a narrow escape. I eyed the waves crashing onto the rocks warily, and realized if Tim had a wet exit (he was in a hulled boat), getting back into his kayak would be extremely challenging in this swell, and swimming to shore would be treacherous. I had visions of a water laden kayak crashing onto the rocks - heavy and out of control. Although I was on my Heritage Sea Dart sit-on-top, even I was concerned about getting knocked off it. Climbing back on would be easier than re-entering a hulled boat, but in these conditions, it still wouldn't be a piece of cake.

We paddled like this for a long time - occasionally having to rapidly adjust to a random wave hitting from the northeast instead of the southeasterly swell direction. This kept things interesting to say the least. I kept an eye out for any small cove or calmer spot to give us a reprieve from the conditions, but there were none. It's amazing how good a paddle workout you get when the effort is seasoned with a pinch of panic.  

Finally, I noticed a very small calm area in what was barely a cove. I think it may be called "Old House Cove", but I'm not sure. Anyway, the conditions continued as we entered the harbor, and a few minutes rest in the relatively calmer waters in this cove were a blessing. As we proceeded into the harbor, our direction adjusted more to the north. This put us almost perpendicular to the swell, riding straight down wave faces - which could increase the chance of pearling. Fortunately, the swell abated somewhat as we paddled farther into the harbor and back across Stage Fort Park to the beach. We avoided rock outcrops in the water and navigated safely to the beach, where we hauled out for some much needed rest and relief. I didn't time it (I was a bit too busy keeping my shit together 😁), but my guess is we were paddling for an hour in those conditions. It felt great to put my two feet on the sand again.

Once I had gathered my wits and shaken loose my stiff arms and back, I took a look at the entrance to the canal under the drawbridge - where we had emerged from the Annisquam River. Returning boats were lined up to pass on the east side under the bridge, and many outbound boats were still entering the harbor via the west side. I walked over to the stone wall at the edge of the canal and peered over it to see an outbound current that was significantly stronger than what we had experience on the way out. When we left the Annisquam and paddled under the bridge, the tide had just turned and was inbound. Against the outbound river current, it was largely neutralized, and only posed a minor effort to overcome. Now, the tide was outbound, and, magnified by the outbound river flow, had increased to a speed that required powered boats to re-enter against the flow at near to full throttle. Add to that the relatively narrow width of the canal, which pinches the current and speeds it further, and there was absolutely no way we would be able to paddle back through VIDEO of an ATTEMPTED PADDLE. I realized immediately this route had not been well considered. I had to come up with another plan to get the kayaks back to my truck, which was parked upriver at the public launch near the High School. Well, if I couldn't get the kayaks to the truck, then I would have to bring the truck to the kayaks.

View of the Annisquam River & the ocean beyond

I determined a path I could walk, and crossed two lanes of traffic, now backed up for the regularly raised drawbridge. I found a path down to the east bank of the river, and walked the 1/4 mile to the parking lot at the public launch. Tim stayed with the kayaks to keep an eye on them, and hopefully to direct me to a rare parking spot along the causeway next to the beach. Due to the traffic, I had to drive a large, looping route to get back to the beach from the west. Fortunately, a spot miraculously appeared, and we didn't have to carry the boats too far to get them loaded. 

All in all, what had promised to be a casual day on the water turned out to be a difficult, and sometimes frightening excursion. We were both glad nothing serious happened, but spent a little time talking about what could have happened. Some valuable lessons were learned - not the least of which is that, although I have been paddling for many years, I can always improve my trip planning and my safety gear. Oh, and nothing drives a workout better than a little fear 😅.     

- TB on the Water 







           

       

                   

Advice: Safety is a Mindset - 10 Tips for Kayaking Safely

U.S. Coast Guard approaching a swamped kayak 

Safety, in the end, is a mindset. Preparation, experience, equipment, planning - these can all lead to a safer experience. Given the unknown nature of random events, however, no amount of any of them can avert a potential emergency situation. There are just too many variables. Water sports in general, and kayaking in specific have one major challenge that complicates the safety scenario: water. Humans can't breathe it, can't last for long in it when it's cold, and often aren't strong enough to withstand its power. The biggest challenge in water sports isn't the water, though. It's the human mind, and its inability to properly assess risk (see my post Please, Stop the Kayaking Deaths! (proper risk management)). As the saying goes, "no risk, no reward". Kayaking can be a very rewarding activity, but proper risk assessment can mitigate how risky it can be.

That being said, I have a confession to make. For several years, when I first started kayaking, I could not successfully roll my kayak. I took my 17' Perception Eclipse on many adventures over long distances of cold, open water without one of the most important skills necessary for responsible kayaking. And, I still can't. I'm working on that, but meanwhile, I sold my closed hull/cockpit boat for a sit-on-top designed for touring and expeditions. An SOT specifically designed for that purpose is not easy to find - most are made for fishing, and therefore are wider to provide a more stable platform. I was able to locate a used Heritage Sea Dart (see my post entitled Kayak Repairs That Last ), that I can climb back onto if I get capsized - and I have been required to do just that, once. My Sea Dart is fitted with thigh straps, which I think will allow me to roll this boat with practice. You see, even with an SOT, I still believe that learning to roll is a valuable skill. I mention all of this to demonstrate a key component of proper risk assessment: adaptability. I recognized that I did not have an important skill required for my safety. I am working to acquire that skill, but I took the added measure of removing a cockpit, that can fill with water and submerge my boat, out of the equation. In short, I adapted.

So, here's my list of top safety measures and principals to keep in mind if you kayak, or are thinking about it:


1. Accurately assess your abilities and conditioning. Are you a beginner? Great. Learning a new activity can be a lot of fun. Just make sure you learn correctly and safely. Take a tour with a kayak touring company, read everything you can, watch videos, attend kayak equipment shows and ask lots of questions, take a kayak rolling class at the YMCA. Whatever you do, don't bite off more than you can chew, and by all means, don't paddle alone until you have some experience under your belt. If you're experienced or getting there (like me), don't get cocky. Prepare for the worst. Have a game plan if something goes wrong. And - make sure you're in shape for that multi-mile trip before you go. Maybe you could schedule it for later in the season rather than the first warm day of spring.

2. Wear a PFD (life jacket) always. It may be hot, you may be sweaty, and the water may be calm as glass - but what if you have a medical emergency that causes you to capsize? Add "no life jacket" and that could add up to the last time you paddle or do anything else. Just wear it, make sure it fits correctly (snugly) and is buckled or zipped. It could make all the difference. I've had good performance from a Stohlquist model. GET ONE HERE 

3. Dress for the water temperature, not the air temperature. Every springtime in New England, the heartbreaking stories of kayakers and canoeists who drown after capsizing start to seep into the news feeds. Each time I hear about one, I know what the main culprit was: 70F degrees air temperature with 50F degrees water temperature. Someone fell out of his boat, or was capsized somehow and was not prepared for the cold water (read my post Spring is Back! Plan Accordingly.). The U.S. Coast Guard lists functional disability in cold water at 2-15 minutes immersion time, depending on the water temperature US Coast Guard cold water survival . They list hypothermia occurring at 15-30 minutes immersion time. With a cold water shock period of a couple minutes, you really don't have much time to work with. The USCG states if you are not out of the water within 5 minutes under your own power, you may not be able to get out at all. Check the water temp. before you go. Invest in a drysuit FIND ONE HERE or wetsuit separates to mitigate a cold water immersion. Don't paddle alone in very cold water conditions unless you are well experienced and well prepared - and think twice about it even then. The early warmth of a sunny spring day can lull you into a false sense of ease, but the cold water lingering from winter can kill you - fast.

4. Research where you'll be paddling. Is the area influenced by tides? Even river sections well upstream can have tidal changes affect the current flow. Are there choke points? (see my post entitled Where Should I Paddle? ) Bridges, islands, and other barriers can narrow waterways and increase flow speed. Is there heavy boat traffic? Crossing boating lanes between frequent boats can feel like crossing a highway - not to mention dealing with boat wake waves. Is landing possible if needed? Low tide in a marsh river might surround you with 6' high mud walls - a sandbar or rock outcrop could be handy if you need to stop for a bit. A rocky coast could be a very dangerous landing spot if waves are crashing on the rocks. Will there be other kayakers? They can provide great real time updates of conditions where you are headed, and confirm the area as a known kayaking location. Has there been a period of heavy rain? River flows can be surprisingly affected by recent rains, and water quality at beaches can suffer. Are there areas that are "off limits"? There may be facilities that require a designated "no-go" boundary, there may be private property that doesn't allow you to land - heck, there could be a shooting range close to the water. Be aware of who's there, and how that could affect you.

5. Plan your trip to your abilities. You're not in great shape, maybe a little heavy. You're on a low quality discount recreational kayak. You can't swim well, and maybe you've had a drink or two. You are not making good decisions. However, if you're at the lake with family, and you're paddling back and forth over 3 feet of water on a hot July day, and you could stand up if you fell in, you're probably going to be alright. Now you get the idea to sit your 2 year old on the kayak with you and paddle to a nearby raft that's in 10 feet of water. Do you see how quickly the danger level can rise? Would you be capable of rescuing the 2 year old and yourself? Are you both wearing life jackets? Either commit to developing the capabilities and skills required to handle challenging conditions, or stay close enough to shore in flat water so you can walk out. Honestly assess yourself, and assess the conditions as accurately as you can - then use those parameters to decide where to paddle (see my post Where Should I Paddle? ). 

6. Watch the weather and the time. If you're on the water in a lightning storm, you are in serious danger. You are the tallest point on an otherwise flat surface, and are courting a lightning strike like the key on Ben Franklin's kite. Lightning can be present without rain, and should be considered with the utmost caution. Storms can whip up the wind, causing you to paddle into one if your landing point is in the direction it's coming from. They can also whip up choppy surface conditions on the water that can capsize you. If you're on a long trip, you should be prepared with extra clothing and rain resistant gear in case a surprise storm hits. Keep your eye to the horizon as you travel, and be aware of the direction storms most often travel in the area - you might see one coming in time to avoid it. Also, know what time the sun will set on the day of your trip. Mark your departure time, and check it often to ensure you have enough time to backtrack and get off the water before dark. Fore and aft lights are available, and are not a bad idea (as well as a head lamp) in case you misjudge and get caught in the dark.

7. Consider your gear with safety in mind. Other than paddling a quality kayak (see my post entitled Which Kayak Should I Buy?  ), carefully considering you're gear selection is one of the more important influences on your ability to deal with unforeseen conditions. Have you stowed an extra paddle? If you've lost your paddle, and it has floated away or sunk, how will you propel yourself? Hand paddling is tough work, to say the least. Do you have rope to tie off your boat, or to tie a tow line to your buddy's boat, or to throw to someone as a safety/rescue line? Do you have a dry change of clothes in a dry bag, in case you get wet and cold? Do you have extras of any critical hardware that, were it to break, would render your kayak's performance ineffective? Do you have something that could reliably start a fire to warm you up and/or signal for help in a worst case scenario? Do you have a mirror you can signal with? Also, consider marine communication equipment to raise the Coast Guard if you're planning open ocean adventures. 

8. Tell someone where you'll be. Leave a note, send a text, tell someone who will remember - whatever it takes, just let someone know where you will be putting in and where you will be landing, and roughly what time you expect that to be. And, make sure also to communicate when you're safely out of the water.

9. Keep your cool. If you find yourself in a dicey scenario, don't panic. I know; more easily said than done. Panic will only interfere with your decision making and make things worse. Assess the situation you're in quickly, determine the quickest means to improve the situation, and, once you have done that, do it again - until you are safe. Then, you can calmly consider how to work around the danger and get out of there. A nearby landing spot, a calmer section, even an object to hold onto or brace against can provide a temporary reprieve, and give you a chance to regroup. I've been in a couple of those situations, and if you paddle long enough, you will too. 

10. Learn and adapt. The beauty of experience is that it gives you the opportunity to improve your abilities for the next time. If you overcame a challenge or dealt with a dangerous scenario successfully on a past trip, use that experience to help prevent a similar situation.Think about how the event occurred - what was your role in it? Could you have avoided it? Could your response have been better, maybe more efficient? Was your gear selection helpful or lacking? It may sound morbid, but allow your mind to wander to the worst case of what might have happened - because it could have. Consider the impact on your loved ones. Think carefully about the choices that led you to find yourself in that situation, and how they could have led you to an even worse one. Then, use your imagination to think what would keep you out of, or get you out of the worst case - and prepare for that. Do that over time, and your capacity to safely operate your kayak will improve exponentially.

Safety is not the most exciting part of a kayaking experience, but here's what is: the confidence to know you are prepared to respond to challenges and issues as they arise, and the wisdom to make the choices that maximize the good, and minimize the bad outcomes. The water is not to be taken lightly, but that's the point. That's why interacting with it is so rewarding. Maximize your enjoyment by carefully considering all and any safety challenges - there are undoubtedly more than I have noted above. Then, relax and enjoy the water, the sky, and the sun on your face.

- TB on the Water